Re: One person Bleeding brake caliper techniques?

Robert Lewis · Post by **Robert Lewis** » Sat Aug 10, 2019 3:38 am

' I have the Mighty Vac and it is PITA ...multiple units, leaks and sucks air. My brother had the same experience. There are work arounds but who needs that when you are contorted into a pretezel trying to deal with something that can be a safety issue. I haven't used it personally, but the one Mel recommended looks like the best I have seen so far.
Robert and Bev Lewis2000 Safari Continental, since 20173126B Cat, 330hpMD3060 Allison
https://safaritoonces.org

On August 9, 2019 11:23:56 AM "bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends]" wrote:
John, the Mighty Vac (is a Harbor Freight) I referenced is a vacuum brake bleeder. Are you referring to a different one? The Mighty Vac is a hand pump with gauge, shows the vacuum being placed on the line.. Thanks, Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd

Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 9, 2019, at 12:46 PM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

Willie,

Go to Harbor Freight and and buy a brake bleeder, it does not cost
that much and won't require micky mousing with brake pedal and
weights. Considering that in your climate, you have to bleed often, it
will be a low cost worth while investment.

John
'95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, Cummins C8.3-300, Allison
6spd

On 8/9/19, bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends]
wrote:
> SF’s,
> Proven techniques that worked for you?
>
> I’m considering starting motor, press brake pedal, place 25 to 50lb weight
> on brake pedal or board braced to chair, attach my HF MightyVac on bleed
> screw valve, build up vacuum, break bleeder valve, retighted.
> Repeat.
>
> Thanks for your time in responding.
> Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: bilmac36
> ------------------------------------
>
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'

Robert Lewis · Post by **Robert Lewis** » Sat Aug 10, 2019 3:42 am

' Same experience... junk tool IMO... wasted time trying to bleed F350 brakes. Its not you ...its the tool.... recommend taking it back, find one that actually works.
Robert and Bev Lewis2000 Safari Continental, since 20173126B Cat, 330hpMD3060 Allison
https://safaritoonces.org

On August 10, 2019 6:32:49 AM "bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends]" wrote:
Good morning and Thanks fellas for the good suggestions.I have this hand pump MightyVac model. Though I did note an air compressor assisted model in YouTube, but was not able to find it in their online catalog. https://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html But either I have a blockage in my line (which I don’t think I do) or it simply doesn’t place enough vacuum on it.I was being inpatient yesterday, wanting to get the rim & tire back on and things tidied up.I will have a house full of extended family for a teenager’s B’day party today. May try to snag my great nephew for a bit and show him some of the work that goes into keeping big boy toys.
Appreciate yalls inputs.R/wmWillie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 9, 2019, at 2:25 PM, Dwayne knollibe@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

I agree. You can purchase a one man brake bleeder

Dwayne Knoll

> On Aug 9, 2019, at 10:46 AM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] wrote:
>
> Willie,
>
> Go to Harbor Freight and and buy a brake bleeder, it does not cost
> that much and won't require micky mousing with brake pedal and
> weights. Considering that in your climate, you have to bleed often, it
> will be a low cost worth while investment.
>
> John
> '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, Cummins C8.3-300, Allison
> 6spd
>
> On 8/9/19, bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends]
> wrote:
>> SF’s,
>> Proven techniques that worked for you?
>>
>> I’m considering starting motor, press brake pedal, place 25 to 50lb weight
>> on brake pedal or board braced to chair, attach my HF MightyVac on bleed
>> screw valve, build up vacuum, break bleeder valve, retighted.
>> Repeat.
>>
>> Thanks for your time in responding.
>> Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>> Posted by: bilmac36
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Community email addresses:
>> Post message: Safarifriends@onelist.com
>> Subscribe: Safarifriends-subscribe@onelist.com
>> Unsubscribe: Safarifriends-unsubscribe@onelist..com
>> List owner: Safarifriends-owner@onelist.com
>>
>> Shortcut URL to this page:
>> http://www.onelist.com/community/Safarifriends
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: TD
> ------------------------------------
>
> Community email addresses:
> Post message: Safarifriends@onelist.com
> Subscribe: Safarifriends-subscribe@onelist.com
> Unsubscribe: Safarifriends-unsubscribe@onelist.com
> List owner: Safarifriends-owner@onelist.com
>
> Shortcut URL to this page:
> http://www..onelist.com/community/Safarifriends
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

'

robertfury@gmail.com · Sat Aug 10, 2019 3:52 am

'Sticks work, and they’re free! Just sayin

Robert F
94 Continental 8.3 Cummins'

Bilmac36 · Post by **Bilmac36** » Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:32 am

'Ok gents, so my double digit midget great nephew is a good youngun and worked well as a team. We established our “push, hold, release” with repeat backs communications and I bleed all the calipers prefilled fluid out and repeated till several containers of clear fresh new fluid passed/bleed out. (You May recall I had bleed, flushed all four about a month ago.)
BUT there is an issue. Either the brandnew hose is collapsing or I have a pinch point or ????. Issue is I can only rotate the rotor/hub assembly about one 360 degrees if I do immediately after the brake pedal is released. Otherwise the brake is activated and I can not rotate the rotor.All of this is done with wheel off. Complete access to everything mentioned above.
What/how we did:I used the ~4-6 ounce cup that came with the Before mentioned hand vacuum pump, and clear tube on bleeder valve. Would take about three sets of break open, close bleeder to fill the reservoir cup. Dump cup when full and repeat. Did this series 4 or 5 times.
Now what was replaced leading up to this: New brake hose from caliper to chassis. Bolted through chassis and reconnected existing solid metal brake line to the female threads on inside of chassis framing. Good fit. And of course connected the male 7/16 -24 male threads into the bottom of brake caliper. Good fit as well. Brandnew, not rebuilt caliper purchased from local Freightliner dealer.Rotor turned; new velvet ride disc; greased all slides, spring and retainer installed. And the peripherals: cleaned and repacked bearings, new double sided seal (interior bearing), tightened axle nut appropriately. Wheel hub/rotor spun well, locking pin back in place, hub cover reinstalled using RTV gasket maker. Now I’m back to scratching my head as to what may be keeping the pressure and not allowing caliper to release on this driver side new front caliper and rotor assembly. Yes, engine was running during this evolution.Thoughts? I do have an identical second new hose I can try, but visually I see no collapsing from the new one installed.Ideas about brake not releasing with exception of momentarily?Thanks, Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 10, 2019, at 11:52 AM, robertfury@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

Sticks work, and they’re free! Just sayin

Robert F
94 Continental 8.3 Cummins '

W Taylor Hudson · Post by **W Taylor Hudson** » Sat Aug 10, 2019 8:17 am

'Robert, There are two forces invilved in retracting a caliper piston off the pad and rotor. a) flexure of the caliper piston seals. That is the piston seal has a memory to where it is relaxed when the piston is in it’s normal retracted position. When brakes are applied, the seal is somewhat straightened or stretched. When the brakes are released, the seal provides some pull away from the rotor as the seal seeks it’s relaxed position. b) Even a properly trued disk rotor has a minute amount of runout. The “high spot” of the rotor presses the pad slightly pushing it off the rotor.
If you had not replaced the caliper, I would have some concerns the piston(s) could be “tight” in the caliper bores and not freely moving back. With the new caliper and properly greased slide pins, I would not be concerned about pad retraction. It is not unusual to have a finished wheel you cannot turn continuously. Put it together and drive it around the block with windows over the subject wheel. If the pads truly drag, you should be to hear, and eventually smell it. v/r,
Taylor Hudson‘98 Sahara Serengeti (4060), CAT 3126acquired 2018

On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 4:34 PM bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

Ok gents, so my double digit midget great nephew is a good youngun and worked well as a team. We established our “push, hold, release” with repeat backs communications and I bleed all the calipers prefilled fluid out and repeated till several containers of clear fresh new fluid passed/bleed out. (You May recall I had bleed, flushed all four about a month ago.)
BUT there is an issue. Either the brandnew hose is collapsing or I have a pinch point or ????. Issue is I can only rotate the rotor/hub assembly about one 360 degrees if I do immediately after the brake pedal is released. Otherwise the brake is activated and I can not rotate the rotor.All of this is done with wheel off. Complete access to everything mentioned above.
What/how we did:I used the ~4-6 ounce cup that came with the Before mentioned hand vacuum pump, and clear tube on bleeder valve. Would take about three sets of break open, close bleeder to fill the reservoir cup. Dump cup when full and repeat. Did this series 4 or 5 times.
Now what was replaced leading up to this: New brake hose from caliper to chassis. Bolted through chassis and reconnected existing solid metal brake line to the female threads on inside of chassis framing. Good fit. And of course connected the male 7/16 -24 male threads into the bottom of brake caliper. Good fit as well. Brandnew, not rebuilt caliper purchased from local Freightliner dealer.Rotor turned; new velvet ride disc; greased all slides, spring and retainer installed. And the peripherals: cleaned and repacked bearings, new double sided seal (interior bearing), tightened axle nut appropriately. Wheel hub/rotor spun well, locking pin back in place, hub cover reinstalled using RTV gasket maker. Now I’m back to scratching my head as to what may be keeping the pressure and not allowing caliper to release on this driver side new front caliper and rotor assembly. Yes, engine was running during this evolution.Thoughts? I do have an identical second new hose I can try, but visually I see no collapsing from the new one installed.Ideas about brake not releasing with exception of momentarily?Thanks, Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 10, 2019, at 11:52 AM, robertfury@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

Sticks work, and they’re free! Just sayin

Robert F
94 Continental 8.3 Cummins

'

TD · Post by TD » Sat Aug 10, 2019 8:36 am

'Willie,

Try and see if the brake6releases when you shut your engine off.
A malfunctioning hydroboost can self apply the brakes.

John
'95 Serengeti

On 8/10/19, bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends]
wrote:

> Ok gents, so my double digit midget great nephew is a good youngun and
> worked well as a team. We established our “push, hold, release” with repeat
> backs communications and I bleed all the calipers prefilled fluid out and
> repeated till several containers of clear fresh new fluid passed/bleed out.
> (You May recall I had bleed, flushed all four about a month ago.
>
> BUT there is an issue. Either the brandnew hose is collapsing or I have a
> pinch point or ????. Issue is I can only rotate the rotor/hub assembly about
> one 360 degrees if I do immediately after the brake pedal is released.
> Otherwise the brake is activated and I can not rotate the rotor.
> All of this is done with wheel off. Complete access to everything mentioned
> above.
>
> What/how we did:
> I used the ~4-6 ounce cup that came with the Before mentioned hand vacuum
> pump, and clear tube on bleeder valve. Would take about three sets of break
> open, close bleeder to fill the reservoir cup. Dump cup when full and
> repeat. Did this series 4 or 5 times.
>
> Now what was replaced leading up to this: New brake hose from caliper to
> chassis. Bolted through chassis and reconnected existing solid metal brake
> line to the female threads on inside of chassis framing. Good fit. And of
> course connected the male 7/16 -24 male threads into the bottom of brake
> caliper. Good fit as well.
> Brandnew, not rebuilt caliper purchased from local Freightliner dealer.
> Rotor turned; new velvet ride disc; greased all slides, spring and retainer
> installed. And the peripherals: cleaned and repacked bearings, new double
> sided seal (interior bearing), tightened axle nut appropriately. Wheel
> hub/rotor spun well, locking pin back in place, hub cover reinstalled using
> RTV gasket maker.
> Now I’m back to scratching my head as to what may be keeping the pressure
> and not allowing caliper to release on this driver side new front caliper
> and rotor assembly. Yes, engine was running during this evolution.
> Thoughts? I do have an identical second new hose I can try, but visually I
> see no collapsing from the new one installed.
> Ideas about brake not releasing with exception of momentarily?
> Thanks, Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 10, 2019, at 11:52 AM, robertfury@... [Safarifriends]
>> wrote:
>>
>> Sticks work, and they’re free! Just sayin
>>
>> Robert F
>> 94 Continental 8.3 Cummins
>>
>>
>

'

Bilmac36 · Post by **Bilmac36** » Sat Aug 10, 2019 9:24 am

'Thanks John, & Taylor, The hydroboost is what I’m concerned about.
The driver brake sorta releases once I turn the engine off. If I muscle it I can rotate it. So obviously pressure is relaxed a bit. If the hydroboost is acting up then it should also impact my frt passenger side as well (and the rear I suppose.) I think I will elevate enough to see if I can rotate it freely as well. I’m going to double ck the specs on these new brake hoses as well. They were special ordered so appear newly made. Shouldn’t be suspect, but I’ve had new faulty components out of the box before.Thanks fellas.Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 10, 2019, at 4:33 PM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

Willie,

Try and see if the brake6releases when you shut your engine off.
A malfunctioning hydroboost can self apply the brakes.

John
'95 Serengeti

On 8/10/19, bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends]
wrote:
> Ok gents, so my double digit midget great nephew is a good youngun and
> worked well as a team. We established our “push, hold, release” with repeat
> backs communications and I bleed all the calipers prefilled fluid out and
> repeated till several containers of clear fresh new fluid passed/bleed out.
> (You May recall I had bleed, flushed all four about a month ago.
>
> BUT there is an issue. Either the brandnew hose is collapsing or I have a
> pinch point or ????. Issue is I can only rotate the rotor/hub assembly about
> one 360 degrees if I do immediately after the brake pedal is released.
> Otherwise the brake is activated and I can not rotate the rotor.
> All of this is done with wheel off. Complete access to everything mentioned
> above.
>
> What/how we did:
> I used the ~4-6 ounce cup that came with the Before mentioned hand vacuum
> pump, and clear tube on bleeder valve. Would take about three sets of break
> open, close bleeder to fill the reservoir cup. Dump cup when full and
> repeat. Did this series 4 or 5 times.
>
> Now what was replaced leading up to this: New brake hose from caliper to
> chassis. Bolted through chassis and reconnected existing solid metal brake
> line to the female threads on inside of chassis framing. Good fit. And of
> course connected the male 7/16 -24 male threads into the bottom of brake
> caliper. Good fit as well.
> Brandnew, not rebuilt caliper purchased from local Freightliner dealer..
> Rotor turned; new velvet ride disc; greased all slides, spring and retainer
> installed. And the peripherals: cleaned and repacked bearings, new double
> sided seal (interior bearing), tightened axle nut appropriately. Wheel
> hub/rotor spun well, locking pin back in place, hub cover reinstalled using
> RTV gasket maker.
> Now I’m back to scratching my head as to what may be keeping the pressure
> and not allowing caliper to release on this driver side new front caliper
> and rotor assembly. Yes, engine was running during this evolution.
> Thoughts? I do have an identical second new hose I can try, but visually I
> see no collapsing from the new one installed.
> Ideas about brake not releasing with exception of momentarily?
> Thanks, Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 10, 2019, at 11:52 AM, robertfury@... [Safarifriends]
>> wrote:
>>
>> Sticks work, and they’re free! Just sayin
>>
>> Robert F
>> 94 Continental 8.3 Cummins
>>
>>
>
'

mel96safari · Post by **mel96safari** » Sat Aug 10, 2019 9:41 am

'WillieI had that problem with the front disc brakes on a Dodge chassis class B Winnebago.The fix was adjusting the rear drum brakes which where grossly out of adjustment.(Probably not the same on our coaches with 4 wheel disc brakes).
However I have heard that a rubber brake hose, IF IT'S INTERNALLY REDISTRICTED, will cause that.One did on a friend's '96 Serengeti... (but that hose was 19 years old, on a then 75,000 mile, coach).
Mel'96 Sahara

---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Ok gents, so my double digit midget great nephew is a good youngun and worked well as a team. We established our “push, hold, release” with repeat backs communications and I bleed all the calipers prefilled fluid out and repeated till several containers of clear fresh new fluid passed/bleed out. (You May recall I had bleed, flushed all four about a month ago.)
BUT there is an issue. Either the brandnew hose is collapsing or I have a pinch point or ????. Issue is I can only rotate the rotor/hub assembly about one 360 degrees if I do immediately after the brake pedal is released. Otherwise the brake is activated and I can not rotate the rotor.All of this is done with wheel off. Complete access to everything mentioned above.
What/how we did:I used the ~4-6 ounce cup that came with the Before mentioned hand vacuum pump, and clear tube on bleeder valve. Would take about three sets of break open, close bleeder to fill the reservoir cup. Dump cup when full and repeat. Did this series 4 or 5 times.
Now what was replaced leading up to this: New brake hose from caliper to chassis. Bolted through chassis and reconnected existing solid metal brake line to the female threads on inside of chassis framing. Good fit. And of course connected the male 7/16 -24 male threads into the bottom of brake caliper. Good fit as well. Brandnew, not rebuilt caliper purchased from local Freightliner dealer.Rotor turned; new velvet ride disc; greased all slides, spring and retainer installed. And the peripherals: cleaned and repacked bearings, new double sided seal (interior bearing), tightened axle nut appropriately. Wheel hub/rotor spun well, locking pin back in place, hub cover reinstalled using RTV gasket maker. Now I’m back to scratching my head as to what may be keeping the pressure and not allowing caliper to release on this driver side new front caliper and rotor assembly. Yes, engine was running during this evolution.Thoughts? I do have an identical second new hose I can try, but visually I see no collapsing from the new one installed.Ideas about brake not releasing with exception of momentarily?Thanks, Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd

'

babygreatlakes · Post by **babygreatlakes** » Sat Aug 10, 2019 3:35 pm

'A couple of years ago I had my front b rake caliper on the drivers side locking up after a short time in stop & go traffic. The brake was dragging so bad you could smell the lining burning. I ended up taking it to a truck tire shop and they replaced brake lines, caliper and rotor. The brake line was deteriorated inside and a flap of the inner wall had come loose and was acting like a one way valve not letting the pressure back out so the caliper would completely release. The rotor was blue black from the heat and the seals in the caliper were now bad as well. As a precaution I did both sides and I think it cost me about $700. I had a similar issue with my Z3 several years earlier.
95 Serengeti 38' Magnum mid entry.Allison 6 speedCumins 8.3CMarc in Renton WA'

TD · Post by TD » Sat Aug 10, 2019 6:59 pm

'Willie,

We are talking a tiny amount of hydraulic pressure to keep you from
turning the rotor by hand, as your hand does not have leverage to spin
the rotor. With these miniscule amounts of pressure it is very likely
that the caliper closest to the master cylinder will first, as
pressure increases, it quickly balances out.
When the hydroboost acts it can apply the brakes enough to bring the
coach to a full stop without touching the brakes.

When this symptom is happening, crack open the front brake line at the
master cylinder. This will bleed off the pressure. If the caliper
releases, then you know that it is not the hose. This is simple
hydraulic logic...

John
'95 Serengeti

On 8/10/19, bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends]
wrote:

> Thanks John, & Taylor,
> The hydroboost is what I’m concerned about. to
> The driver brake sorta releases once I turn the engine off. If I muscle it I
> can rotate it. So obviously pressure is relaxed a bit. If the hydroboost is
> acting up then it should also impact my frt passenger side as well (and the
> rear I suppose.) I think I will elevate enough to see if I can rotate it
> freely as well. I’m going to double ck the specs on these new brake hoses as
> well. They were special ordered so appear newly made. Shouldn’t be suspect,
> but I’ve had new faulty components out of the box before.
> Thanks fellas.
> Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 10, 2019, at 4:33 PM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends]
>> wrote:
>>
>> Willie,
>>
>> Try and see if the brake6releases when you shut your engine off.
>> A malfunctioning hydroboost can self apply the brakes.
>>
>> John
>> '95 Serengeti
>>
>> On 8/10/19, bilmac36 bilmac36@... [Safarifriends]
>> wrote:
>> > Ok gents, so my double digit midget great nephew is a good youngun and
>> > worked well as a team. We established our “push, hold, release” with
>> > repeat
>> > backs communications and I bleed all the calipers prefilled fluid out
>> > and
>> > repeated till several containers of clear fresh new fluid passed/bleed
>> > out.
>> > (You May recall I had bleed, flushed all four about a month ago.
>> >
>> > BUT there is an issue. Either the brandnew hose is collapsing or I have
>> > a
>> > pinch point or ????. Issue is I can only rotate the rotor/hub assembly
>> > about
>> > one 360 degrees if I do immediately after the brake pedal is released.
>> > Otherwise the brake is activated and I can not rotate the rotor.
>> > All of this is done with wheel off. Complete access to everything
>> > mentioned
>> > above.
>> >
>> > What/how we did:
>> > I used the ~4-6 ounce cup that came with the Before mentioned hand
>> > vacuum
>> > pump, and clear tube on bleeder valve. Would take about three sets of
>> > break
>> > open, close bleeder to fill the reservoir cup. Dump cup when full and
>> > repeat. Did this series 4 or 5 times.
>> >
>> > Now what was replaced leading up to this: New brake hose from caliper
>> > to
>> > chassis. Bolted through chassis and reconnected existing solid metal
>> > brake
>> > line to the female threads on inside of chassis framing. Good fit. And
>> > of
>> > course connected the male 7/16 -24 male threads into the bottom of
>> > brake
>> > caliper. Good fit as well.
>> > Brandnew, not rebuilt caliper purchased from local Freightliner
>> > dealer...
>> > Rotor turned; new velvet ride disc; greased all slides, spring and
>> > retainer
>> > installed. And the peripherals: cleaned and repacked bearings, new
>> > double
>> > sided seal (interior bearing), tightened axle nut appropriately. Wheel
>> > hub/rotor spun well, locking pin back in place, hub cover reinstalled
>> > using
>> > RTV gasket maker.
>> > Now I’m back to scratching my head as to what may be keeping the
>> > pressure
>> > and not allowing caliper to release on this driver side new front
>> > caliper
>> > and rotor assembly. Yes, engine was running during this evolution.
>> > Thoughts? I do have an identical second new hose I can try, but visually
>> > I
>> > see no collapsing from the new one installed.
>> > Ideas about brake not releasing with exception of momentarily?
>> > Thanks, Willie, Connie is ‘95 Continental, 8.3L, Ally 6spd
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >> On Aug 10, 2019, at 11:52 AM, robertfury@... [Safarifriends]
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Sticks work, and they’re free! Just sayin
>> >>
>> >> Robert F
>> >> 94 Continental 8.3 Cummins
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>>
>>
>

'

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