Safarifriends.org

The first day I bought the coach, 'where is, as is' it overheated on the first hill it came to about 5 mins from the dealer. Here is a workaround to reduce the engine temperature and way to implement a cleaning system for the radiator that was plugged.

https://safaritoonces.org/project-tree- ... erheating/

Robert,

Just a couple of comments.

This is a good "work around".

But, were you not time/location constrained, using a PROPER degreaser (one that is aluminum friendly to protect the aluminum CAC) annually works fine. Simple Green EXTREME is an excellent choice-- designed to degrease aluminum aircraft.

I am not sure the demister with degreaser would do an adequate job on this annual cleaning. Sure would not use it once up to operating temperature. Degreasers at high temperatures and likely evaporating on hot metal-- probably not a good idea.

And, if you are going to use the mister on some of those long/steep grades in high ambient temperatures (which is a fine idea IMO) be sure to use distilled water so you do not end up coating the fins with mineral deposits.

Your idea of higher RPM (2100 or so) and less than WOT is the formula many of us have used to, along with annual cleaning, to keep operating temperatures in check.

Also, on your engine, the engine water pump is driven by a separate V belt that is NOT on an automatic tensioner. Have seen a number of them that were loose and slipping. So, check that as well.

And lastly on the cooling system, until the last of the Caterpillar 3126 engines, there is a grease zirk on the fan hub. Be sure to give it a small shot of grease when lubing the chassis. If you take your coach to a dealer for lubing, assume it is NOT BEING DONE, as you access it from under the bed. If anyone says they greased it without lifting the bed-- expect to see a circus-ready individual with 7' arms and 3 joints.

Caterpillar also recommends replacing the thermostat(s) every three years. They can stick. Certainly replace them when changing coolant. Caterpillar calls them regulators.

Brett, good comments and advice thank you.

I was in a no-win situation, stuck in RV lot where they would not have tolerated any mess, no tools, no experience with this engine (I did not need do the maintenance on my last MH it was under warranty), and did not belong to or know about any forums and limited by time.

The next modification I will do is to cut out a cleaning port on the top of the fiberglass shroud and then make a detachable plate that can be bolted back into the shroud using the cut out. This will allow proper cleaning of the entire backside from the top.

This was a particularly stupid design in my estimation. Someone should have figured out that oil fumes mixed with dust would clog the rad and intercooler, plus facing the rad backwards there is no airflow over the rad except air plulled in over the hot muffler and dust sucked into the bay by airflow from the bottom of the chassis. This works like a vacuum cleaner on the road with the intercooler and rad being the carpet bag.

I have been trying to find some SG extreme here, but it isnt sold in Canada. I think I have to order and have it sent to a US mail drop.

One other easy/inexpensive modification that keeps oil vapor out of CAC and radiator:

Extend the crankcase breather tube rearward to behind the radiator.

!" barb to barb fitting and 4' of clear reinforced 1" ID hose, 2 hose clamps and some zip ties. Yes, other, more expensive hose can be used, but by the time vapor reaches the extension hose, it is not very hot.

Cut off existing crankcase breather square so the barb to barb can be attached.

Affix 4' hose on barb and route toward back of coach, zip tying it in place. IMPORTANT: HOSE EXTENSION MUST ONLY RUN DOWNHILL/NO DRIP LOOP. A drip loop could allow an ice plug to block crankcase breathing if operating in below freezing conditions. Yes, moisture is a normal byproduct of combustion.

Robert,
Simple Green Pro HD is available at Canadian Tire, bottom shelf in household cleaning supplies section as I have seen in a lot of western Canada's CanTire stores. Simple Green Extreme seems to be made in small batches and come and go on Amazon.ca. I too had a quick overheating as the day warmed up from Hope, BC to Vernon with our "new to us" rig. I am still keeping a eye out for SG Extreme but have had great success with a 3 times cleaning detail and a slobber tube mod as I am sure the rad clean had NEVER been done before me, probably got a gallon or more of oil mess onto the diaper dropsheet.
Len
1996 Serengeti 3740 300hp Cat 3126...still waiting for our first big trip

Len, thank you... I will try Canadian Tire, never thought of them. I have been looking at Home Depot.

The mod I will try is to put a container on the tube with stainless cleaning pads, lots of holes in the upper part of can. I saw this mod on another site a few years ago and I think there is a product manufactured that does exactly the same thing. I think the oil collects in the can and you drain the system every once in awhile. Seems to me this would be a good way to do the mod because we could see how much oil was in the blow by and it winds up in the container and no chance of getting into the rad.

My previous owners did not do any of their own work, and they paid a heavy penalty in failures and money. My rad was so plugged that when holding a ribbon behind the rad, it hung straight down. Now if you walk there you can feel your hair being blown back. I think it needs further cleaning. The next change when I get some time and energy is to cut out ports in the shroud that can be replaced, and do another cleaning with the SG

Anyone ever veer from the standard Chrysler engines and put in something different? Just curious for some ideas on re-power. Also if you could start over would you go big blocks or small for a 32?

Debrapiept wrote: ↑Tue Sep 29, 2020 2:42 pm Anyone ever veer from the standard Chrysler engines and put in something different? Just curious for some ideas on re-power. Also if you could start over would you go big blocks or small for a 32?

Debrapiept
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