Silverleaf Upgrade / Transmission ECU

[Safaritoonces]

I strongly agree with Mel... Don't get some over paid apprentice to further cause problems that you will pay excessively for.

I would suggest watching the video again. If you have nothing when you try to start this may be a simple problem. There is one ground wire that is critical to the relay start circuit in the battery bay. See the presentation on the battery tray I referenced. You may have broken that wire. On my coach this was cobbled to the main ground lug with most of the strands broken. In the video I show how this was corrected. I know this seems over whelming but before being a sponsor for some guys down payment for a new truck look carefully for the wire and check the fuses in the start circuit.

Look for a broken wire ... You might see it hanging, it is normally white and 14 gauge. There are fuses on the firewall and battery bay. The flat ANL fuses are checked with a DVM, you should read 12+v on the top. Don't remove these, the filament is easily broken. The other fuses on my system are on the relay panel. See the videos.

I don't think you are that far away from fixing this issue.

[TDJohn]

Robert,

Your right, I shouldn't have screwed with batteries and grounding the system. I have now created some permanent issues. Yikes. Now the ignition comes on but when I turn the key it doesn't even "click" for the solenoid. I think I am going to look into bringing a professional out to fix the mess I have created. I know just enough to get me into serious trouble. When it comes to replacing air compressors, interior, etc I got it, when it comes to all these ECM's I am like a bull in a China shop apparently.

Matt,

By your statement, I am going to assume that you disconnected your batteries, and since then, the coach no longer starts. If that is the case, check all the small gauge wiring (10ga and smaller) that is hooked up to your chassis batteries. You likely have a loose connection on one of the smaller wires, and/or did not hook up the small wires correctly after disconnecting them. If your coach does not have have a group of high amp, ANL type fuses, it is most likely that there are 4 white wires with small printed labeling on the wire every foot or so. Two of the wires will be ground and two will be positive (one positive should feed the CAT ECM, and the other feeds the Allison TCM/VIM). The positive wires should have inline fuses, check those fuses. It's also possible that you have different color wires (red and/or black?) that won't have printed labeling on them, but two of those wires should still have inline fuses in them. Also check the fuses in the Allison VIM, like Robert mentioned.

If you do have the high amp ANL fuses, you should then also have a small fuse box in your battery compartment. Follow Robert's video tutorial and check the 35 amp ANL fuse and the fuses at the small fuse box. If you are not getting power to the small fuse box, then likely, your ANL fuse is blown.

I will PM you with my contact info, so if you like, give me a call this evening (EST).

[stuplich@ymail.com]

Matt,
By your statement, I am going to assume that you disconnected your batteries, and since then, the coach no longer starts. If that is the case, check all the small gauge wiring (10ga and smaller) that is hooked up to your chassis batteries. You likely have a loose connection on one of the smaller wires, and/or did not hook up the small wires correctly after disconnecting them. If your coach does not have have a group of high amp, ANL type fuses, it is most likely that there are 4 white wires with small printed labeling on the wire every foot or so. Two of the wires will be ground and two will be positive (one positive should feed the CAT ECM, and the other feeds the Allison TCM/VIM). The positive wires should have inline fuses, check those fuses. It's also possible that you have different color wires (red and/or black?) that won't have printed labeling on them, but two of those wires should still have inline fuses in them. Also check the fuses in the Allison VIM, like Robert mentioned.
If you do have the high amp ANL fuses, you should then also have a small fuse box in your battery compartment. Follow Robert's video tutorial and check the 35 amp ANL fuse and the fuses at the small fuse box. If you are not getting power to the small fuse box, then likely, your ANL fuse is blown.
I will PM you with my contact info, so if you like, give me a call this evening (EST).

John
I agree with you, however there is not a wire, (white or colored), anywhere in my coach that has labeling printed on it.

[TDJohn]

Matt,
By your statement, I am going to assume that you disconnected your batteries, and since then, the coach no longer starts. If that is the case, check all the small gauge wiring (10ga and smaller) that is hooked up to your chassis batteries. You likely have a loose connection on one of the smaller wires, and/or did not hook up the small wires correctly after disconnecting them. If your coach does not have have a group of high amp, ANL type fuses, it is most likely that there are 4 white wires with small printed labeling on the wire every foot or so. Two of the wires will be ground and two will be positive (one positive should feed the CAT ECM, and the other feeds the Allison TCM/VIM). The positive wires should have inline fuses, check those fuses. It's also possible that you have different color wires (red and/or black?) that won't have printed labeling on them, but two of those wires should still have inline fuses in them. Also check the fuses in the Allison VIM, like Robert mentioned.
If you do have the high amp ANL fuses, you should then also have a small fuse box in your battery compartment. Follow Robert's video tutorial and check the 35 amp ANL fuse and the fuses at the small fuse box. If you are not getting power to the small fuse box, then likely, your ANL fuse is blown.
I will PM you with my contact info, so if you like, give me a call this evening (EST).

John
I agree with you, however there is not a wire, (white or colored), anywhere in my coach that has labeling printed on it.

Mel,

I'm aware that the wires on your coach are not labeled, as your coach, just like mine, was made prior to the changeover to white labeled wiring that are similar style to what airplanes use. Matt's coach was made around time of the transition to the new style of wiring, so this is why I mentioned both styles (read further on the message, where I highlighted it in blue).

Being that you mentioned the wires on your coach, are you also having issues with your ECM and TCM not powering up?

[stuplich@ymail.com]

Mel
I'm aware that the wires on your coach are not labeled, as your coach, just like mine, was made prior to the changeover to white labeled wiring that are similar style to what airplanes use. Matt's coach was made around time of the transition to the new style of wiring, so this is why I mentioned both styles (read further on the message, where I highlighted it in blue).
Being that you mentioned the wires on your coach, are you also having issues with your ECM and TCM not powering up?

John
Not currently.

However 18 years, (over 110,000 miles), ago I had an Allison VIM issue which caused "DO NOT SHIFT" to display on the Allison push button shift pad and resulted in the inability to shift out of neutral.

I was told by an Allison tech (at Detroit Diesel in Minnesota), that the wire FROM a chassis battery positive post TO the to the VIM was carrying enough volts to power his diagnostic computer, but had corroded to a point where it could no longer carry the amps that the Allison VIM, (and/or his diagnostic computer), needed to operate correctly.

Other than that, many years later, I had another DO NOT SHIFT condition.
At that time I found corrosion on the blades of the fuse, and in the inline fuse holder, of that wire.
A good cleaning, (and dab of dielectric grease), has so far prevented a re-occurrence of the DO NOT SHIFT problem.

[matcappel]

So when I had removed the batteries and then reconnected the battery wires I got them mixed up and got good sparks... Whoops! 2 white wires grouped together are on the negative (I know those two are right) and I have 3 white wires grouped (all fused individually) and I thought they had been wired to positive all with inline fuses (makes sense to me). I connected the negative cable last and got sparks! So I switched the group of questionable white wires to the negative post and no sparks, but that's when I got no juice to the solenoid (or solenoid relay). Now I have 5 white wires on negative with no fuses blown, doesn't make sense to me so I pulled the group of 3 white wires (with fuse 12" up the line) and wrapped them in a shop rag off to the side. Why you would fuse the negative feed beats me, and who the heck puts a bunch of white wires onto a battery (why not black or red or yellow). Even worse, what knuckle head takes all those wires off without a sketch or photo and then thinks he can remember how they go together.

I will take a photo of the battery layout connections and maybe you can guide me. One was clearly marked ECM, so I hope I didn't make that toasty. I will post some pics this weekend or Monday.

Just in case, I found an experienced local mobile tech that is willing to come work on it with me over next weekend if I need him (He said I can hang with him and watch / help). The RV is in our driveway so he can't rack too many hours without me knowing. I am just so afraid to fry things that might be hard to find and more costly than the mechanic help.

To all who have chimed in, I so appreciate the feedback, comments, help and encouragement! Thank you, Thank you, thank you!!

[stuplich@ymail.com]

So when I had removed the batteries and then reconnected the battery wires I got them mixed up and got good sparks... Whoops! 2 white wires grouped together are on the negative (I know those two are right) and I have 3 white wires grouped (all fused individually) and I thought they had been wired to positive all with inline fuses (makes sense to me). I connected the negative cable last and got sparks! So I switched the group of questionable white wires to the negative post and no sparks, but that's when I got no juice to the solenoid (or solenoid relay). Now I have 5 white wires on negative with no fuses blown, doesn't make sense to me so I pulled the group of 3 white wires (with fuse 12" up the line) and wrapped them in a shop rag off to the side. Why you would fuse the negative feed beats me, and who the heck puts a bunch of white wires onto a battery (why not black or red or yellow). Even worse, what knuckle head takes all those wires off without a sketch or photo and then thinks he can remember how they go together.
I will take a photo of the battery layout connections and maybe you can guide me. One was clearly marked ECM, so I hope I didn't make that toasty. I will post some pics this weekend or Monday.
Just in case, I found an experienced local mobile tech that is willing to come work on it with me over next weekend if I need him (He said I can hang with him and watch / help). The RV is in our driveway so he can't rack too many hours without me knowing. I am just so afraid to fry things that might be hard to find and more costly than the mechanic help.
To all who have chimed in, I so appreciate the feedback, comments, help and encouragement! Thank you, Thank you, thank you!!

Matt
When you "connected the negative cable last and "got good sparks" did you blow those inline fusses?...
If you did that would indicate that you made a wrong connection...(however if you "got good sparks" when you reconnected the positive wires, but did NOT blow those fusses , you likely didn't damage anything).

When the negative wires are connected to the negative post of your battery and any one of the 3 white wires (with a fuse 12" up the line/all fused individually), is touched to the positive battery post and you see a spark, that spark is likely an indication that whatever is the opposite end of those wires with a fuse 12" up the line is drawing power through that fused wire...(not because you have it connected wrong).

In any case good luck with the mobile tech.

[matcappel]

3 confused wires.jpg (126.35 KiB) Viewed 5953 times

Here are the 3 wires that I thought went to the positive connection (I was 99% positive). When I placed with the positive and then connected the final ground wire I got an are.

3 confused wires.jpg (126.35 KiB) Viewed 5953 times

I switched these then to the negative fearing I put on the wrong ones.

Battery overview.jpg (207.08 KiB) Viewed 5953 times

CONTINUED

[matcappel]

Here is a good overview, the back positive is below

Rear Positive connections.jpg (169.76 KiB) Viewed 5953 times

This last picture below is of one of the wires with the fuse a foot down the line. Makes sense that they go on the positive right?

Wire with fuse inline 1 of 3 in group.jpg (108.14 KiB) Viewed 5953 times

Any concerns please share, but I just bought some new batteries this weekend after discussions with John about keeping fresh batteries and low voltage concerns about the ECM and ECU. I will connect to the positive new batter once we get a day warmer than a high of 19° F... burr.

Stay warm and thank you all so much! I will let you know if she starts (assuming no concerns with putting back on the positive terminal).

[stuplich@ymail.com]

I will connect to the positive new batter once we get a day warmer than a high of 19° F... burr.
Stay warm and thank you all so much! I will let you know if she starts (assuming no concerns with putting back on the positive terminal).

Matt
Unfortunately on a 23 year old coach there is no way of knowing who, what, when, if or how often the original wiring, download/file.php?id=64, has been modified, reworked, redone or "fixed".

However I can tell you this:
If that was my coach, (and I could not figure out what/where those wires come from/go to), I would "bite the bullet"), and connect those 3 white wires, (perhaps one at a time), to a chassis battery positive post and see what happens.