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If you can, please take a picture of both battery banks, with the tray pulled all the way out, so we could see if something is not connect correctly where the two batteries tie in together in parallel.

Thank you John. I understand your frustration, I know you want to help! I'll try to clean all these lugs before and after that, I think that I'll give you a call (maybe tomorrow, I'll let you know before). Meanwhile, I took a measure at big red wire on bus buss (the one that goes to house batteries, pos terminal) and guess what: 0 (engine not running, on shore power). I also took a measure directly on alternator, B+ terminal (I presume it's the B+, there is BAT written close to it). Measure: 0.
Patrick

John is correct.

With a good clean ground for your digital voltmeter, he can walk you through these tests in a few minutes and identify the issue.

I DO like your idea of cleaning and tightening all connections before doing trouble shooting. Safest to remove the battery negative/ground connections before removing large gauge cables that will be HOT. Would hate to see a misdiagnosis because of poor connection that leads you to spending extra $$.

As John said, this is pretty simple if you check it logically.

Patrick,

I take it that you verified that your meter works???

If that is the case, there surely is something strange going on. I'm suspecting that your two engine batteries might not be connected correctly in parallel. There, meaning if one of the two batteries does not have the ground cables connected to both batteries, essentially tying them together and the those particular positive cables happen to be connected to the battery without the ground connection, you won't have power. I'm not the best at trying to explain/verbalize what I'm talking about, so this may seem confusing, but in any case get some pictures of the top of both of your battery banks, from a few different angles, and maybe we will be able to see something that is messed up in the way the battery banks are tied together. Very often the young technicians at RV shops know very little on electrical, and instead of leaving the work to someone more experienced, they just make a big mess of things. It is possible that the previous owner took it to one of those shops and some gifted lad made a good mess of your wiring. Hopefully we will be able to get to the bottom of it and get things straightened out for you.

PS: I just noticed that you private messaged me, I will reply via private message too.

Ok I did a good cleaning job these two last days (and also did a good job of tie-wrapping a lot of wires) and took my measures again. With engine running, the voltage measures were ok at the left and right lugs of the isolator but 0 at the central one. Took also a measure directly on B+ terminal of alternator (it helped a lot when we discovered the "door" on the floor at the right of the bed, can you believe that I never saw it! Much easier to access the alternator with this door open!). The measure was 0 on B+. So we replaced the alternator with a reconditioned one (same brand: Power Tech 150A). Works perfectly now, RPM meter is working again, voltage meter on dashboard shows 12-13, batteries show 13.8 after starting engine. Everything is back to normal.

Again, thank you very much to all of you, John, Brett, Mel and Bob
Patrick
Safari Sahara '96

geantbrun wrote: ↑Tue Aug 04, 2020 3:52 pm Ok I did a good cleaning job these two last days (and also did a good job of tie-wrapping a lot of wires) and took my measures again. With engine running, the voltage measures were ok at the left and right lugs of the isolator but 0 at the central one. Took also a measure directly on B+ terminal of alternator (it helped a lot when we discovered the "door" on the floor at the right of the bed, can you believe that I never saw it! Much easier to access the alternator with this door open!). The measure was 0 on B+. So we replaced the alternator with a reconditioned one (same brand: Power Tech 150A). Works perfectly now, RPM meter is working again, voltage meter on dashboard shows 12-13, batteries show 13.8 after starting engine. Everything is back to normal.
Again, thank you very much to all of you, John, Brett, Mel and Bob
Patrick
Safari Sahara '96

Patrick
Happy to hear you have things working correctly.

My '96 Sahara has no "alternator access door on the floor at the right of the bed",
(It sounds like a good idea).
Can please post a pic of yours.

Thx

Sure Mel, here is a picture of the "alternator access door", right close to the bed. I'm very surprised that you don't have the same as we have both a Sahara 96.
Regards
Patrick
Safari Sahara '96...with the access door

Transverse vs longitudinal (fore and aft) bed lay outs are completely different.

With the longitudinal layout, the whole bed raises for excellent engine access.

geantbrun wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 7:29 pm Sure Mel, here is a picture of the "alternator access door", right close to the bed. I'm very surprised that you don't have the same as we have both a Sahara 96.
Regards
Patrick
Safari Sahara '96...with the access door

Patrick
Thx for the pic,
(Yours is the first '96 Safari I've seen with the closet across the back).

On my 3530 floor plan, the head of the bed is at the rear of the coach.

The mattress and the the board supporting the mattress lift up... uncovering a 60", (side to side), X 72", (front to back), engine compartment access opening.

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