Possible bad solenoid? How to test?

[chuckster]

Hello Safarifriends,

The coach I took possession of last month ('01 Zanzi 3646) has a few issues. One of them is that the battery disconnect switch is not disconnecting the batteries when depressed. I was told by the previous owner that the switch had been replaced but no joy after that. I am suspecting that it is the solenoid in the electrical panel in the panel outside the drivers window. I took a picture (attached) of it and it has been sprayed over (I am assuming the spray is some form of contact/electrical protector) and I cannot read any label on it. In doing a little research, I found one at a web site for $25 (attached) and think this MAY work but I am hesitant to pull the trigger without some advice.

Since the house batteries are working in the coach to supply 12V, how do I test the existing solenoid to force it to drop voltage? Is this the right replacement part (picture)? I don't mind gambling on a $25 part if it is the right one and even if it doesn't fix the problem wouldn't mind having one in the spare parts bin in the coach.

Appreciate any advice that this post generates!

Regards,

[stuplich@ymail.com]

Hello Safarifriends,

The coach I took possession of last month ('01 Zanzi 3646) has a few issues. One of them is that the battery disconnect switch is not disconnecting the batteries when depressed. I was told by the previous owner that the switch had been replaced but no joy after that. I am suspecting that it is the solenoid in the electrical panel in the panel outside the drivers window. I took a picture (attached) of it and it has been sprayed over (I am assuming the spray is some form of contact/electrical protector) and I cannot read any label on it. In doing a little research, I found one at a web site for $25 (attached) and think this MAY work but I am hesitant to pull the trigger without some advice.

Since the house batteries are working in the coach to supply 12V, how do I test the existing solenoid to force it to drop voltage? Is this the right replacement part (picture)? I don't mind gambling on a $25 part if it is the right one and even if it doesn't fix the problem wouldn't mind having one in the spare parts bin in the coach.

Appreciate any advice that this post generates!

Regards,

chuckster
See: https://blog.delcity.net/how-to-test-a- ... tep-guide/

And this video:https://mail-attachment.googleuserconte ... cCQX29ZlN8

[astrnmrtom]

You'll want a solenoid that has silver contacts, (not copper contacts) like this one: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/co ... acts&pos=6

Should be available at any auto supply store. You might be able to bring in the original to match it up dimension wise.

If you cycle the switch - or have someone else do it while you listen to and feel the solenoid, you should hear it give a solid click. Sometimes the contacts can weld themselves together. You could also remove the solenoid and energize it via the small terminals while checking for continuity across the large lugs with a Meter. That would isolate the solenoid from the rest of the circuit. One thing I might try first is remove the wires from the small terminals one by one to see if it releases. Be careful working around these things because there's a lot of amps in those big lugs. If it isn't releasing a good solid rap with something non conductive while the switch is being pushed can sometimes free the contacts.

[TDJohn]

Chuck,

The front panel and the small solenoid inside it does not supply power to your house. It supplies power to your dashboard and the solenoid gets energized when the ignition gets turned on. Your issue is with the Intellitec/latching type of solenoid that is likely in your engine compartment, near the high amp ANL disaster fuses. You could have something miswired or the switch is not working properly. Google search on how a latching solenoid works, this will help you understand and test the function of it.

[chuckster]

Thanks, John. I’ll check this out.