Safarifriends.org

Have 13v+ at switch pigtail. When switch is turned on loose all power. 13+on both sides of circuit breakers. 13+ to parking light relay terminal 30 only. No power to fcc switch. New headlight switch.

Hotrod - it would be extremely helpful if you include what year, make and model of Safari you are having issues with. There are multiple changes over the course of their design, so it's really hard to help when we don't know with what. Also, if you don't wish to create a signature block, no biggie, but it's common courtesy to at least sign your post so we know whom we are addressing.

Thanks

Erik,
A couple of things jump to mind - one big (huge) issue with Safari's is that they ran a line from the rear to the front for the headlight power - so while you may be reading over 12 volts, you may be missing the amperage that's needed for the headlights. There have been multiple posts in which members have ran a new, heavier gauge power line and installed a relay for the headlights since ours lack true illumination. This is even more noticeable if you've changed out the old bulbs to new ones that have a higher amperage draw. Another huge issue is that under the dash, Safari had a bad habit of putting everything onto one ground wire, so your ground could be bad or going bad. The top of the dash is fairly easy to take off - on my 96 there are two bolts sticking down that have to have the nuts removed, then the screws for the top of the faceplate have to be removed and the top lifts straight up exposing all the wiring underneath. Also check the ground for your actual headlights on their connectors - if it's bad you can have a feedback loop instead.

I thought power for headlight switch came from chassis distribution board.

HotRod69 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 21, 2022 4:41 pm I thought power for headlight switch came from chassis distribution board.20220115_164929.jpg

Yes, at least it did on our 1997 Sahara.

But you do need to check voltage at the headlights themselves. The small wires to the head light switch and then to the bulbs can have a significant voltage drop.

I and many others used the head light switch to close the contacts in a RELAY-- one for low beam and one for high. Power comes from the power supply point up front with inline fuses to each relay. 40 amp relays are inexpensive at found at all auto parts houses.

A one volt increase at the headlight makes a significant difference.

If you are losing power on both sides of the circuit breaker when you put a load on, I would trace the wire that feeds that circuit breaker and see if there is corrosion or a loose or poor contact.

Have power both sides of circuit breaker. Just replaced both. 12v on headlight wire to switch. A little less then 12v on wire feeding parking lights to switch. As soon as I pull switch out I loose all power. I can activate parking light relay manually and lights come on. At first I could jump from headlight hot wire in pigtail to parking lights and dash lights and they would come on now nothing. Really need a wire diagram for headlight switch.

Erik,

Did you test for voltage on both sides of the circuit breaker while the switch is turned on? I'm wondering if your breaker is tripping off because of a dead short somewhere...

Does the whole buss bar that feeds the headlight circuit breaker go dead when you turn the headlight switch on?

No the circuit breakers always have 13v on both sides. I replace both today. I don't understand. When I pull switch out I loose power to pig tail but still have 13v at the breaker. Every thing else works well except the fridge . Well the drive lights quit also. That what's weird the headlights and drive lights worked when I drove it home, no running lights or tail lights. Now nothing. A dead short would trip circuit breaker. Why do I loose power only at the switch with switch on.

Please post photos of the plug/pigtail for the headlight switch and the backside of the headlight switch where the pigtail plugs into.

What issues are you having with your refrigerator?